Webinar Recap with Supply Compass
On January 27, 2021, our CEO and co-founder, Greg Moore, shared the virtual stage with Flora Davidson (Co-Founder & Head of Product at Supply Compass), Avihay Feld (Co-Founder & CEO of Browzwear), Yazan Malkosh (Founder & CEO of Swatchbook) to discuss the state of digitization and 3D in the apparel and fashion industry.
3D design has been in the fashion industry for several years, but less than 2% of fashion designers use digital 3D tools during the design process. Most still use 2D solutions. Read the full webinar recap here.
We’ve been so integrated with a rise in production, quick production, quick pace but we are forgetting the tools that allow us to do that from an efficiency standpoint. While we have this desire to move towards digitization, we also have the need to be nimble.Greg Moore
How Design Teams Develop without Digital 3D Tools
To learn why digital 3D design matters so much, we need to understand how most fashion designers work. Most fashion teams align with the following development/deployment schedule:
- A garment’s journey generally begins with the technical design team. This team is responsible for the pattern blocks and the intended “fit” of the garment. They are constantly taking in feedback from their shoppers and internal teams to determine whether their pattern blocks are aligning with their shoppers’ bodies.
- Following technical design, the design team then takes over. They are responsible for transforming the pattern blocks into beautiful garments meant to excite the shoppers. Design teams generally do this with sketches or 2D tools like Adobe Illustrator, AutoDesk Design Software, etc.
- After a garment is designed, the team will then get a physical sample made so that the technical design, design, and quality teams can see the garment in a live format. They will then drape the garment on mannequins and fit models to evaluate feedback and fit. Any revisions to the design occur at this time, and new samples are requested. This process will continue until the team achieves final sign-off on the garment.
- Approved garments are sent to the merchandising & sales teams who are responsible for selling the garment into the retail or wholesale channels.
The Cost of Designing Without Digital 3D Tools
The 4 step process we outlined above requires a tremendous amount of time, cost, labor, and creates a substantial amount of material and CO2 waste. The majority of the time and waste falls within steps 2 and 3, as several versions of a garment can be created and discarded several times until it receives final approval.
The Design Process after Adopting Digital 3D Tools
Now let’s assume that a brand has worked with WAIR to acquire their true-to-life digital 3D avatars that best represent their shoppers’ bodies and has integrated digital 3D solutions from leading vendors like Browzwear, Clo3D, or Optitex. Steps 1, 2, and most of 3 are collapsed into one step that is 100% digital. Both the technical design and design team are developing the pattern for a garment with a clear understanding of how the garment will drape and fit the human form before ever seeing a physical sample. These teams will generally experience a reduction in a garment’s time to market, as well as a decrease in material and CO2 waste to finalize the design.
What’s Holding the Industry Back?
Given the benefits of digital 3D design, why is only 2% of the industry using it?
Using digital 3D design tools does require additional education and training. The companies that have integrated these tools and workflows have clearly invested in up-leveling their staff.
The supply chain is still very “protected”. Cross-platform communication is non-existent and most solutions have developed proprietary file formats. Some of the supply chains may be on another digital 3D platform, it presents a conformity challenge.
Prior to WAIR, the price of digital avatars was exorbitantly high. Furthermore, there was no evidence that they actually represented the brand’s shoppers’ bodies.
Where Do We Go From Here
While digital 3D design is the way of the future, it is important to understand the steps required to achieve material adoption. As we work together as an industry to become more sustainable, it will take a sense of collaboration and investment in education to get there.
About WAIR’s 3D Journey
WAIR first got into the fashion industry by helping 3D-enabled brands like Nike, Superdry, PVH, The Warehouse baseline and then optimize their sizing strategies with the body shapes of their regional customers. The brands that are 3D enabled are able to adopt the optimized strategies almost immediately resulting in a higher conversion rate and decrease rate of size and fit returns.